This trail lived up to its reputation as a classic Swiss hike, and as much as that made us eager to try it, I guess Amy and I should have also taken this as somewhat of a warning. We were reminded that “Swiss” also generally means “acclimatized”, and up to this point, we were neither.

​

We at least made sure first of all to save this one for a good day, when we could enjoy the promised view from the top of the town of Leukerbad below, the Alps in the distance, and an adjacent glacier. We were not disappointed. The trail began near the base station for a cable car we could have just as well taken to the summit, but opted to save only for the trip down.  The expected four walk up seemed reasonable enough to achieve with a full day ahead, especially on maintained path that was less of a hike than we’ve done before. Besides, with families of parents and children ahead and behind us, how bad could it be?

The path started on a relatively conservative incline, but that proved to be misleading.  Not only for the fact that before an hour into the hike small sections became considerably steeper, but as much because even the more shallow sections never let up.  Even a gentle slope over four hours can wear on you. For the first two hours, we were proud to be keeping good pace up to the base of the enormous rock faced mountain wall.  As we approached the wall we realized we were running out of distance between it and us, with still no way up in sight.  We finally started to notice as we get closer what we had already been thinking, that there would be no “easy way” and that the trail would go all but straight up the face of the wall, and at best, a crisscross of narrow switchbacks.

​

We held to our faith and the premise that this should be a “family” hike nevertheless, and continued, now more “up” than “on”.  The higher we zigged, the steeper, and closer to the wall we zagged. The cable rail that started to appear around an exposed rocky bend did little to comfort against the sheer drop visible on the other side of it despite the solid and well defined steps.  Even as the trail started back into a more protected rock slot that lead to a more level intermediate grassy plain, we generally hugged the inside edge near the mountain wall, as children bounded merrily by on their way up or down.

At first sight of the more-than-halfway point grassy meadow, I was feeling tired but optimistic.  We were roughly an hour from the top (presumably), and it looked like we had reached a good place for a break before the final stretch. As we slowed down for pictures and a rest, we joined a group of hikers and workers (setting up fireworks along the trail, we later discovered) in trying to spot a herd of mountain goats reunite with a seemingly lost bleating kid on the opposite wall of a deep narrow canyon. Once the distraction of the goats and the gathering of people started to wear off however, I started feeling the effect of the exposure when we rose up out of the canyon to the small grassy plateau.  By the time we sat for our break, I was already regretting not bringing another layer to wear and worrying more about whether the rest of the way up would continue to get colder.  To add to the effect of the height we had gained, the sun in the meantime had also disappeared.

​

I also started to feel the regret of not bringing enough water, as I started feeling the effect of the altitude we had gained.  Hiker 101: even on an easy hike, surrounded by plenty of people on a “warm” summer day, be prepared.  Realizing suddenly I had failed at two essential trail principles in neglecting to pack for changing weather and carry extra fluid, I started to worry if I could make it.